For the Electronically Inclined

[CrypticQuery]

I recently came into possession of this older Sireno beacon light.  I'd love to test out its functionality and use it for display purposes with the aid of a power supply, but it seems as if its 12V automotive plug was removed at some point in its life.  It draws approximately three amps while running according to the documentation that I received with it (which somehow survived since 1976). 

If I purchase something like this, can I just crimp the two together (making sure the polarities are lined up, of course)?  Or could I even just pick up a standard car-charger, cut the connector that I don't need off, and crimp that to it?  The linked adapter has sixteen gauge wire, and I can't tell what's coming off of the beacon although it is quite small.  

(For the record, I've been meaning to pick up a bulb for it as well, ha.)

[DZComposer]

So long as the electricity you are feeding it is within spec, things should be fine as far as it working and being safe, assuming it is in good working order otherwise.

You will want to make sure your supply wire can handle the current, too. Too small, and it could overheat and start a fire. I would go no smaller than the gauge of the existing wire. Get one of these: http://smile.amazon.com/1-36-Standard-Wire-Gauge/dp/B00DE8IVJC/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461282738&sr=1-10&keywords=wire+gauge+measuring+tool

If you're not using it in an automotive application, I would suggest purchasing a DC bench power supply to drive it. It will be a bit more expensive, but I would trust one over some cobble-job of automotive power converters. It's not hard to find one that will supply 12V at 3A all day without issue.

It is imperative that any power source you choose be rated with enough amperage. Nicer bench PSUs can have such specs adjusted, but they can get pricey. Be careful with car adapters, many of them are likely designed for circuits that draw current in milliamps. Drawing 3A from one would blow it to bits.

EDIT: Given its age, make sure you thoroughly look it over before connecting power to it. Look for corroded parts, busted solder joints, and bloated or leaky electrolytic capacitors. Replace any damaged parts and re-solder any bad joints. I imagine someone in the emergency lighting collector community has a full schematic if the part is not marked.

[CrypticQuery]

1 hour ago, DZComposer said:

So long as the electricity you are feeding it is within spec, things should be fine as far as it working and being safe, assuming it is in good working order otherwise.

You will want to make sure your supply wire can handle the current, too. Too small, and it could overheat and start a fire. I would go no smaller than the gauge of the existing wire. Get one of these: http://smile.amazon.com/1-36-Standard-Wire-Gauge/dp/B00DE8IVJC/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461282738&sr=1-10&keywords=wire+gauge+measuring+tool

If you're not using it in an automotive application, I would suggest purchasing a DC bench power supply to drive it. It will be a bit more expensive, but I would trust one over some cobble-job of automotive power converters. It's not hard to find one that will supply 12V at 3A all day without issue.

It is imperative that any power source you choose be rated with enough amperage. Nicer bench PSUs can have such specs adjusted, but they can get pricey. Be careful with car adapters, many of them are likely designed for circuits that draw current in milliamps. Drawing 3A from one would blow it to bits.

EDIT: Given its age, make sure you thoroughly look it over before connecting power to it. Look for corroded parts, busted solder joints, and bloated or leaky electrolytic capacitors. Replace any damaged parts and re-solder any bad joints. I imagine someone in the emergency lighting collector community has a full schematic if the part is not marked.

Thanks for the quick and detailed reply!

I wasn't even aware that those wiring gauge measuring devices existed.  I've added one to my cart.  The existing gauge of wire is relatively tiny by the looks of it, and the documentation with the light (see spoiler below) does offer recommendations for the gauge of wire supplying power.  I'll be sure to stick within those guidelines.

My original intent was to have it powered by a proper power supply - something like this.  I wanted to have the automotive adapter plug on the end of the light to make it a bit easier to switch out with others in the likely event that I start a small collection of these things, but the banana plug suggestion is a good one as well.  In the event that I were to go for the automotive plug, and crimp the two together using butt splices, do you think the adapter I mentioned earlier would suffice?  The 10 amp fuse would presumably accommodate the 3-4 amp draw, right?

Thanks for the tip on looking the innards over as well.  This was supposedly NOS, but considering that the original auto-plug wasn't present I can only wonder how accurate that description was!

 

 

 

 

[DZComposer]

Assuming it's not a Shenzen Market piece of crap and is actually a 10A adapter, it should be fine.

That diagram is not a circuit diagram, but it looks like a simple-enough circuit. I'm guessing there probably aren't any electronics in it at all, just a DC motor and a bulb.

[CrypticQuery]

You're right - the only thing to power is the bulb and motor.  The reflector spins around the bulb. 

Thanks for the help.  Once I get it up and running I'll put a video up.

[CrypticQuery]

Consider this one a success - thanks for your assistance, DZ.  The crimps are admittedly horrendous looking, but this was meant to be a test and display piece at the most.  I'll eventually clean the installation up now that I know that everything operates at it should.  I love the lower flash rate and beam throw that this light has.